Author Topic: Beeherder's Hive Reports  (Read 1460 times)

Beeherder

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Beeherder's Hive Reports
« on: February 04, 2010, 05:06:05 PM »
 :greet025:
I'll still post under the other bee thread when its general topic about bees but have decided that since I need to automate my hive notebook this year it might as well get posted here too. Those other bee threads have become monologue which are fairly boring to this writer so please if you want to see this junk please let me know, otherwise I'll stop wasting the bandwidth. So here is where the Beeherder is at the beginning of 2010.

Jan 31, 2010 Apiary status

New 16' x 16' bear exclosure under construction, nearly all materials on site.

   3 of 8 fence posts set, square and plumb
   2 holes ready to pour,
   3 more holes to cut with the contractor's 110v portable jack hammer (magic!! labor saving tool)
   2 new ground rods driven and connected to the 25% of ground wire already buried
   2 more ground rods to set, and one more old rod to find
   replace old ground wire but re-use same old 4 ground rods just connect them all
   order and run direct burial single insulated conductor from fence charger to new bull panels
   hang and bond new bull panels when posts are set and ready
   move one Langstroth hive from old to new apiary (just to space things out for beekeeper safety)

   research use of pollen substitute for spring buildup using single feeding station for entire apiary

New Warre hives

   ordered three new 3 pound bee packages for delivery April 24, in Windsor
   ordered woodenware, first week January from www.bloominbz.com/index.html
   delivered 3rd week January 
   ready for paint
   will use salvaged near new oak pallets for hive tables in the new apiary

Langstroth Hive maintenance - as weather permits

   order 3 new 8 frame deep brood boxes to rotate out old wax in hives L1, L2, L3
   order 14 new deep frames
   order swarm pherome packets for swarm catcher

New & Replacement equipment

   new smoker
   order another vieled overall setup
   

silverseeds

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Re: Beeherder's Hive Reports
« Reply #1 on: February 04, 2010, 05:50:41 PM »
  Very neat.... in a few years, I am considering getting a hive or two, out at my land......

I dont want to take your thread of topic, but I am curious of legalities? Do you need a permit to get a hive going????

I might just do things to attract wild bees to set up shop, but then I wont be able to score honey..... so Id prefer to try a hive....

Beeherder

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Re: Beeherder's Hive Reports
« Reply #2 on: February 04, 2010, 07:32:47 PM »
please a dialog is preferred! you can't steal my topic because I don't own it, eye just talk about it, whenever folks will listen or seem interested.

Legal requirements vary by country and state. No inspections required here in Colorado because they de-funded the State Apiarist years ago. Some municipalities that have limited beekeeping in the past are modifying those laws to allow beekeeping in the town limits. This makes tremendous sense because those town neighborhoods usually have mature landscape and often more flowers than rural agricultural areas.

If you live or have remote property it could be even more suitable for sustainable beekeeping than densely farmed and populated rural areas. Imo, the biggest cause of all the American and English beekeeping problems are caused by use of pesticides, especially the newest neonicitinoids. Industrial agriculture uses pesticides liberally and it seems to me needlessly. No matter how you view the use of pesticides there is no denying that pesticides have negative effects on bees and that the honey is contaminated. That's right eye said the honey is contaminated. Bees are flying dustmops and will pick up everything that resembles pollen in size and bring it back to the hive whether they intend to or not.

Some of the longest lived people on the planet are beekeepers. It is strenous physical work to keep lots of beehives. Because of my personal limitations all beeyards must accomodate wheeled carts and dolly's so my beeyards will be layed out with more space than a professional operation. Well let me rephrase that, after spending all those FRNs on expansion i am now interested in selling some of that produce so maybe that makes me commercial now. Anyway what I'm doing now is definitely more than a hobby and less than a career.

silverseeds

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Re: Beeherder's Hive Reports
« Reply #3 on: February 04, 2010, 08:13:54 PM »
  How much is involved for caring for just a hive or two?

  Have an idea of what it would cost? If it is to expensive, I will likely just work on getting local bees to move in.

Beeherder

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Re: Beeherder's Hive Reports
« Reply #4 on: February 05, 2010, 03:19:25 PM »
 :greet025:
I have found the most significant expenses are the upfront cost of protection from bears and the cost of woodenware. The bees are a minor part of the actual cost, maybe 15 - 20%.

Northern Colorado Beekeepers Association is charging $13 dues and $67 per 3 lb package (that includes the marked queen and about 10,000 worker bees).

If you have access to raw materials and a wood shop it may be cheaper to build your own or if you are a commercial operation it may be imperative from cost perspective but as a hobbyist and now sideliner its cheaper to purchase the assembled unpainted woodenware. I use 8 frame Langstroths for weight reasons while pros use 10 frame Langstroths. I started with Warre' hives because of personal interest and desire to produce wax as well as honey. Now I'll learn about which is better and why.

If you are interested try subscibing to Bee Culture magazine for a year, ( www.beeculture.com ) see what you learn, maybe buy and read a book and take a class before investing money.

Beeherder

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Re: Beeherder's Hive Reports
« Reply #5 on: February 10, 2010, 12:15:56 PM »
Hey SS, lets go over to the topic thread called Bees and discuss beekeeping in general and I'll use this thread to tell you folks how things are going in my apiary as a current event report.

Please, anyone or everyone ask questions or better yet tell us aout your experience with bees.

there is still plenty of the harvest of 2009 in my bottling pail for all of my needs and the several regular customers. I'll tell you about the harvest as a current event here and discuss it in general in another thread if we can. Hey this ranger wanders so that's ok too. Any way lets have a dialog not a monologooooooo  .... zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Beeherder

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Re: Beeherder's Hive Reports
« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2010, 10:25:03 AM »
February & March Hive Report

Snow on the ground from Feb 5 - March 5, temps well below freezing every night no progress on completing the new apiary enclosure because of weather

New Warre equipment delivered and inspected, waiting for temps warm enough to apply paint on the exterior. Low temp in early March was 5 F. brrrrr There have been very few days with temps above 50 this winter so the bees have not had the usual time for cleansing flights. Late March saw temps warm enough to observe normal activity in all three Langstroth 8 frame hives.

Two of the three Langstroths seemed a bit light weight so i put the sugar water feeders on each hive beginning 3/06/2010. This is the earliest to ever start feeding a perhaps a bit overcautious but that starved hive last year really bummed me out so must avoid that.

3/07/2010

All three feeders nearly empty so added another half gallon 2:1 syrup to each hive. Everybody looks healthy, all hives defensive? did not breakin to the hives yet just put top feeders on and now adding more syrup.

3/9 - 3/18 Putting syrup on every few days, and they are taking it all. Saw some small amounts of grey pollen on returning foragers.

3/21 Sunday, temp 60, wind < 5 mph

Put 2 gallons of 1:1 syrup on each hive, all hives still had small amount of syrup from last feeding. Inner covers showing condensation from all that water they are evaporating to store the syrup. Flipped inner covers to the winter configuration to keep water from dripping onto the brood box. Foragers returning with yellow pollen.

75% of new equipment has 2 coats of paint at 3 pm by 7 pm 100% of new equipment had second coat of paint. Ataboy Beeherder, now that paint has a full month to dry before the new bee packages arrive on April 25.

schedule brood box reversals for next nice day

3/31 Weds temps mid 60s light winds

Removed feeder from L1 to inspect - 30% capped brood coverage on 3 frames, lots of eggs and uncapped larvae surrounding the capped brood. Deconstructed and examined hive. Removed old bottom deep and 6 of the 8 old frames that were 5 years old. These old frames will either be destroyed or at least all the drawn comb will be scraped off the plastic foundation, more likely I'll just replace all those old deep frames with a whole new deep box of new frames with wax foundation. Winter configuration was Deep8/medium8/medium8/medium7. Now configured medium8/medium8/medium8/Deep8. When the brood nest moves up into those new frames (he said hopefully) they will have drawn new comb on all that new foundation. So when there is good coverage of brood in the deep that is now on top the broodbox will be again moved to the bottom and then the medium7 supers with drawn empty comb from previous years will be put on top, but that's jumping ahead.

Winds picked up and beekeeper got tired so only one hive got the treatment today. More on the next nice day.

New apiary fence progressing, all posts set plumb and square, ground wire buried around new enclosure with four new ground rods. 3 of 4 old ground rods unearthed. All this required helpful labor of another. Lots more to do before this job is complete and Mr Bear will wake up in May so gotta get it done.

« Last Edit: May 06, 2010, 10:28:37 AM by Beeherder »

Beeherder

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Re: Beeherder's Hive Reports
« Reply #7 on: May 20, 2010, 01:58:25 PM »
Cold and snowy/rainy spring is keeping me out of the hives, still lots to do getting ready for the Warre’ hives.

4/10/2010 Started processing wax at mid day and it took until midnight to empty the 5 gallon bucket of last year’s wax.

4/11/2010 10 am, Father son team of new beekeepers come over to put bees wax in the top bar groove for their top bar hive. A Warre’ top bar hive as we have them configured is 4 square super each with 8 bars for the bees to draw frames of comb. The idea is that the bees will use that groove of wax as the anchor for the comb they will suspend from that top bar. We used some of the wax from my work yesterday and i sent them home with a big chunk of wax to be melted and applied to their Warre’ hive with 8 frames of foundation in each square super. Father and son figured out how to do it as a team i just stood back and grinned.

After father and son went home i started brood box reversal of Hive #2. Observed frames of brood both capped and uncapped split vertically in two medium supers. Some partial frames with capped honey remain, 5 frames 30% capped honey, empty comb ready for brood. Broke hive down, cleaned out all the stuff (wax from capped honey after they opened it, bee parts, gunk and snarf), nothing remarkable, this hive seems strong for early April. Installed new deep with all new wax foundation, rotating out the 4 year  old deep and all its old nasty dark frames. Got hurried toward the end as wind was picking up so will need to come back and check those new frames spacing. Now configured:

feeder box
deep (replacing the old deep which had been on bottom)
medium (was top all winter)
medium (was #2 all winter, these two have the brood nest)

4/12/2010  - spend every spare minute all day filling my top bars with melted bees wax. Used the method discovered by father/son team, 70% completed at end of day.

4/14/2010 - finish remaining top bar wax melts

On nice days i check and fill the feeders that are now on top all the Langstroth hives (H1, H2, H3), number based on year of initial install in that equipment. H1 looks weak, darker bees, more dead bees on ground outside entrance.

Make sugar syrup, fill feeder pails for Warre’ hives (W1, W2, W3). Assemble empty hives in new apiary, secure equipment using strong cordage to tie it onto the salvaged wood pallets. Locating the open bottom screen over the blank area of the pallet so those nasty parasites (varroa mites) can just fall right on out of the hive when the bees do the hygienic behavior thing.

Move some of the stored bee equipment onto empty pallets in the back of the new apiary even though the fence is not yet complete. The garage is getting too full of bee stuff its gotta find a new home. Use telescoping top covers, turned down (so they don’t capture and hold water), place empty Langstroth supers with previously drawn comb on those covers then cover them with covers, no entrance for bees that way. Later this equipment will be put on the Ls for honey production.

4/24/2010 - remove feeders from all the Ls

4/25/2010 - 10 am, father and son join me in town for the 20 minute drive to pick up our new bee packages, two for them, three for me. Purchase 5 pollen patties at pickup point, one for each hive. Back to our meetup and they are off in their car and me in mine to go directly home and install them.

work fence as weather allows, now there are 6 beehives, ooooooh boy, here we go ready or not, now you’re a sideliner.

4/27/2010 - Tuesday, 11 am - 1 pm
Inspected and released queen in all three Ws. All Ws have bees hanging in cluster just above where the queen cage was resting on the top of the top bars in the super below. Everybody looks Ok, all feeders still have plenty of syrup.

Inspect Hs, all new deep frames have no new comb or even much activity, all hives have foragers returning with pollen, H1 has fewer.

cool weather with lots of snow continues to limit both my activity and the bees.

Beeherder

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Re: Beeherder's Hive Reports
« Reply #8 on: June 23, 2010, 03:49:58 PM »
Hive Report May 2010   

5-01-2010 Saturday cool temps, low 50s, light wind

W-1 cut pollen patty into 4 strips left most of paper,
W-2 cut pollen patty in 4 strips got 50% of paper off,
W-3 cut pollen patty in 2 strips got most of paper,

All the Warre’s are hanging in tight clusteron level 2 using about 5 frames in each hive. Placed patties on top of level 1 bars.

Filled feeders in all hives through mid May. Long wet winter and spring with more clouds than usual.

5-17-2010  Monday, temps low 70s, winds 5 - 10 mph

H-1 has least activity at entrance, bees in this hive darker color, fewer stripes. Changed entrance reducer to 3” opening, two drawn combs in the new deep showing signs of honey storage but no new wax being drawn on the new deep frame foundation. Some slow and twitchy bees, low population when they should be in buildup. ???

H-2 showing most activity at entrance, 100s bees/minute coming & going, heavy pollen loads. Storing pollen & honey in drawn 1 deep but not drawing comb on new wax foundation. Good activity in upper box, drone activity at entrance,

H-3 good activity at entrance,

Third Week May

Reversed the brood boxes again on H-2, & H-3, now deeps are on the bottom. Comb drawn on 6 of 8 deeps (not yet 100%).

Removed feeder pails from Warre’s, W-3, not building up?? W-1 & W-2 have drawn 50% comb on 5 top bar strips.

opsec

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Re: Beeherder's Hive Reports
« Reply #9 on: June 23, 2010, 10:13:47 PM »
How long does it take the bees to fill up one frame?
"The difference between a pessimist and an optimist is that the pessimist usually has more information"

"Where law ends tyranny begins. Where law begins, tyranny becomes legal"

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Beeherder

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Re: Beeherder's Hive Reports
« Reply #10 on: June 24, 2010, 12:14:06 PM »
That depends, assuming the hive is healthy and that the beekeeper has provided all the right equipment at all the right times then it just depends  on the type and availability of their nectar source. I am told that a typical commercial bee hive can produce 250 lbs of honey (12 lbs to the gallon) in a summer season. I got 17 pints from 8 frames so far this year and that matches what happened here last year. I have never seen more than half that amount on my hobby hives.

That's like asking how many bushels per acre can be expected, ... it depends.

Beeherder

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Re: Beeherder's Hive Reports
« Reply #11 on: July 01, 2010, 02:50:13 PM »
 :gen013:

Hive Report July 2010

this is an early preview because i seek advice from those in the know about the next steps after today. I will continue typing up the long June Hive Report and post it soon.

07-01-2010 Thursday, sunny, temps in 80s by 9 am

Captured swarm from June 30 appears to have accepted the temporary 10 frame hive they are housed in while i prepare their new quarters.

H-1 is definitely failing. Even after giving them two frames of brood last week it is clear there are no fresh eggs and no new larvae, only spotty drone brood so there may be a laying worker but no queen. Broke hive down to lowest super to find this out. This hive has never advanced since the brood box reversal done in May, so i probably killed or injured the queen while doing that. At the start of this the hive was configured MMMD. I will remove 8 empty frames from this configuration leaving MMD. Then put those empties into H-3 which is exploding with both honey and brood.

H-3 Wow, never seen anything like this. I gave her 12 empty frames just a few days ago and almost everything has honey or brood. Swapped in the empty 8 frames from H-1, stealing 8 full frames for extraction later this afternoon. Then tomorrow morning that empty 8 frames will go into H-2 so i can steal 8 for extraction.

The question is how to handle that recently captured swarm. They are now in a never used before piece of donated equipment because that’s the only bottom board i have on hand. I did order another $200 worth of wooden ware @ $100 shipping just two days ago but that won’t be here until late next week or even the week after. I must equip my shop to do this for next season those shipping charges are murder. The standard procedure would be to leave a swarm in the initially hived equipment but with a solid bottom board instead of a screened bottom board for the mites to fall through this can not be used long term.

Current thinking is to evict the remaining bees from H-1 and move this captured swarm into that location using H-1’s 8 frame equipment. First the plan is to just dump the current inhabitants on the ground, move that empty deep onto the screened bottom board them move the deep frames from the 10 frame hive box into the 8 frame box. This assumes moving before they fill more than 8 frames. Then putting a medium of 8 empty frames and a medium with 4 empty and 4 with some stored honey. The idea here is to get this hive strong before winter. Don’’t necessarily expect any harvest this year.

Also on tomorrow’s task list is to go to W-1 where that swarm originated and add another super. Better late than not at all.

Ryder

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Re: Beeherder's Hive Reports
« Reply #12 on: July 02, 2010, 09:26:33 AM »
Maybe I missed it but does a electric fence charger work for bear repelant. I have seen hives protected here in montana with a couple strands of fence wire hooked up to a electric fence charger powered by a solar charged 12 volt car battery. Or is the electrical interferance bad for the bees in the same manner that cell phone towers might be?
Gotta learn how to knit socks and mittens if you want to survive in montana.

Beeherder

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Re: Beeherder's Hive Reports
« Reply #13 on: July 02, 2010, 09:45:27 PM »
Hi Ryder,

The CSA apiary was destroyed by a bear last autumn and he was using one of those flimsy electrified fences of the white tape between 4' high plastic fence posts. Apparently this did not impede the bear much as it destroyed all 6 Langstroth hives and left the Top Bar Hive unmolested. It is assumed the bear could not tip over the Top Bar Hive. For a description of Top Bar Hives see:

http://topbarbees.wordpress.com/2007/04/17/follower-boards/

I use a very heavy not inexpensive system of elevated "bull pen" fencing. This is 5/16" diameter welded steel wire on 6" grid. It comes in dimensions 16'Lx5'H and takes two folks to lift and move around but once in place it is easy to access. My older apiary has the fence charger mounted on it and is also connected to the new apiary elevated panels. The older one is 8'x8' using two of the 16' panels cut down, the new apiary is 16' on a side elevated using plastic rectangular fence posts cut and placed under the panels then connected to the 8 vertical plastic 6" square fence posts. These are the same fence posts used to build horse fences and when set in concrete seem quite strong. When the bear visited the older apiary 3 years ago it knocked down two of my garden fences and two of the neighbor's going in a straight line to the apiary but since it was electrified and very strong the bear did not defeat it. Another local beekeeper had an exceptionally strong welded skep shaped cage but it was not electrified, the bear got those hives too. It was assumed to be the same bear since these apiaries are on opposite sides of that little town maybe 3 or 4 miles apart. My apiary is 10 miles up the hill from them so that bear may have been trained by its previous experience here. I have been told of folks electrifying a strong cage like that and hanging bacon strips on it just to train the critter. Was told it works but have not tried it. By late August the fence needs to be electrified, now i have it down because I'm in and out almost every day now. This new 16'x16' is much more difficult for me to move panels so one was cut down to 8'+8' and that can be moved with little difficulty. If you live in bear country you must protect your investment.

There is a detailed description of how to build an electrified fence in page 2 of the Bees thread here.

Beeherder

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Re: Beeherder's Hive Reports
« Reply #14 on: November 04, 2010, 02:19:24 PM »
Beeherder's Hive reports in hiatus because i am once again humbled by the complexity of the world around me. Winds, poor construction and less than ideal location leave the BH with two thriving Langstroth style 8 frame hives and one weak Warre' style hive. Today i am attempting to salvage the blown apart components and contents of the failed Warre hive (W2 in my notation system).

Salvaging empty comb and will melt to recover wax but some comb is heavy with pollen that they don't seem to be able to or want to recover. I left those combs leaning agains the hive in the sun for awhile today. Question to any experienced beekeepers who care to comment,

Is this stored pollen in any way valuable to the surviving hive? How can i best make it available to them?

Thanks in advance,

ever more humble, so much to learn, so little time,

BH

 

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